Peggy Guggenheim

Paul Bowles had invited me to Ceylon, where he had bought a little island. It was the southern-most inhabited spot in the Indian Ocean, fantastically beautiful and luxuriant, with every conceivable flower and exotic plant from the east. The house resembled the Taj Mahal, as it was built in octagonal form. We all lived there together in separate rooms divided by curtains, we being Paul, his wife Janie, Ahmed, a young Arab primitive painter of great talent, and an Arab chauffeur, who seemed rather sad without the Jaguar car, which had been left behind in Tangier, Paul's other home.

In order to get to the island one had to pick up one's skirts and wade through the Indian Ocean. There was no bridge or boat. The waves usually wet one's bottom, even though the distance walked could be done in one minute and a half. It was terribly unpleasant to go about all day with a wet bottom, but there was no other way. The beauty of the surroundings made up for all the inconveniences, which were many. There was no water on the island and the servants had to carry it over on their heads. This made bathing, apart from sea-bathing, virtually impossible. But there was a raft just below the house and the swimming was superb. The beach opposite was skirted with coconut palms, and there were narrow fishing craft with beautiful Singalese fishermen riding them astride. It was another world. . . .

Jane And Paul Bowles

Paul hired a driver, a young Moroccan, Mohammed Temsamany, whom he dressed in a military-looking uniform with shiny boots and puttees and with a visored cap. In the Jaguar they drove south to Marrakech and then to Fez, where Paul began to see a good deal of the young Moroccan painter Ahmed Yacoubi, whom he had first met in 1947. Whe Paul heard from Jane that she wanted to return to Morocco, he suggested that he drive to the French border to pick her up. Paul invited Ahmed to come along with him.

With Temsamany in his uniform and Ahmed in his white turban and jellaba, Paul drove through Spain.

Jane was in very good spirits when they picked her up at the border. During the trip south, however, she objected every time Paul drove. She insisted that she always knew exactly what Paul was thinking. She said she felt as if she herself were driving when he drove and she could not relax.